RE: Height of DMAX bed
Beaker, sounds like you are on the right track. Good luck with the new FW.
I KNOW you are gonna love that truck! There is a minor recall out on them for the ECM reflash. That's like an update for our PCs, no big deal. You might try to get the dealer to do it before you take final delivery just so you don't have to go back too soon.
My 2008 is the best new vehicle I've had - zero items to have fixed so far, knock on wood. Of course, I only have only driven 2000 miles on it since I got it in April.
RE: When to Winterize
...was wondering when I would need to winterize my MH. I would like to use it as long as possible, but don't want to cause any damage due to cold temps. Any recommendations/suggestions are welcome and appreciated. Thanks!!!
Edit: Forgot to mention it's a Class C if that makes any difference!!!
Tim
:@
Tim, I can't help you with the when, but I can maybe with the how. There is a winterizing checklist at the link in my signature below. It's the one I've been using for 7-8 years now. There is also a DE-winterizing checklist I use in the Spring.
RE: Trip Calculator
...I have created an Excel spreadsheet that lets you compare the cost of a trip in your RV to the cost of the same trip in your car....
Trip Calculator
Good for you! I am going to (try to) send you a private message also.....
RE: first trip out - what was on your "bring next time" list?
... I've read here, and friends have mentioned, make a list of all the things you forgot to bring so you'll get them in time for the next outing.
....
There's a pretty decent packing list I've used for many years available at the website in my signature. No cost, no spam, no membership, etc - Just download or print and enjoy!
I am so forgetful that I must use a checklist when I do anything!:B
RE: CrossRoads ?
Our friends have a 27' 5er and are very happy with it. Just minor problems that most Rv's have. Got to like a 5er that comes with a hitch on the back.
Generally we like our 2007 Crossroads Cruiser FW. Our previous FW was a Wildcat 27RL. There are some things we don't like, but everything is a compromise, right?
One issue has been the roof has many bubbles in it. The FW was in the shop to have about 6 feet of the roof reattached. This is not a show stopper for anyone, you just have to see it and have it fixed before the warranty runs out.
There is a bunch of info on Cruisers
HERE:
Whatever FW you get, remember to use the Pre-Delivery Checklist you can find at the link in my signature below.
RE: Height of DMAX bed
.....now seems to be the time to get the truck so I went out looking today and ran into a problem.
My current truck is 32" bed height and the DMAX 4wd are 39".
I know I could probably flip axles on fifth wheel and add blocks but it seems that 7 inches is more than I would like.
Does anyone know if all 2008 DMAX 4wd are 39"?
...
There is good and bad news, Beaker.
I bought a 2008 Duramax 4wd a few months ago. I was worried about the truck's high back end also. The good news is it proved to not be a problem for me. The bad news is your FW is probably old enough that you will probably have a problem. There was a lively discussion of these issues about March 2008 and if you do a search you might find them, along with many people listing there truck's height, etc.
I am not sure what you measuring as 32 inches in your current truck and 39 inches in the new truck, but I'm guessing it's what I call the truck bed height (see below).
I made these measurements with my FW hitch installed in the truck bed with about 75 lbs of "junk" loaded also.
> From the middle of the top of my tailgate to the garage floor is 56.75 inches. I call this my bed rail height.
> From the bottom rear of my truck bed to the garage floor is 37.25 inches, plus or minus maybe 0.5 inch. I call this my bed's height.
Remember that there are two issues here:
>One is the distance between the bottom of your FW's "overhand" and the top of your truck's bed rails. I've seen 5 to 7 inches as the minimum clearance.
>Two is the angle of your FW's floor or chassis after you've connected to the truck. Having the back end of the FW too close to the ground is not good, nor is having the FW at an extreme angle as far as wear on the FW's tires, etc.
I suspect you will have problems with your FW. You might try to find someone with a newer Chevy TV and see how that works. Flipping the axels will help, but it will be tough to figure out beforehand if that will give you enough. I'd guess the height you'd gain would be about 4 inches?
RE: GMC/Chevy - Use of Tow-Haul or "Manual" with new Ally
..I like the Allison's Grade Braking feature for short hills but for long grades, I just don't get warm and fuzzy feelings about the Dmax doing 4000+ rpm...
I don't either. I saw 3500 rpm or so on my last trip in TH mode. I didn't like that.
So in manual you just shift into, say (Manual) 4th going down a long grade and keep the speed under control with the occasional brake application? In Manual the trans will not down shift going down the grade, right? I know it will up shift only to the manual gear you have selected.
RE: GMC/Chevy - Use of Tow-Haul or "Manual" with new Ally
With only 750 miles on it the Allison might still be learning. Once you start towing it probably won't seem like its hanging in the lower gears quite as much.
Ah, I think you are correct. I noticed that on my previous DMax, but had forgotten.
RE: GMC/Chevy - Use of Tow-Haul or "Manual" with new Ally
I run in TH mode all the time except for heading into or going down a steep grade. I don't feel the Ally shifts down quick enough heading into a grade so I shift to manual and shift down before I start the climb. Seems to work much better. I get between 11.5 and 13 mpg with our 16k lb 5er with 41k miles on it. Oil change...only when it says to. Most diesel mechanics will tell you that you're throwing your money away if you change it like your Grandpa's diesel. Mine goes between 8-10k miles between changes. More important on the changes is your fuel filter....
Thanks for that, Scott, especially this part "More important on the changes is your fuel filter....".
I replaced my previous 2004 DMax at 44k miles because my "Water in Fuel" DIC message was never displayed and it should have. I was ignorant of fuel filters until my truck started running odd - bucking around, noisy and wouldn't run above 2000 rpm. I took it to a Chevy Dealer in Florida who said my filter was clogged. He changed the filter and told me to "run it hard". About 100 miles later I was getting towed.......30 days later I paid a $6500 bill to another Chevy dealer.
Bottom line: If anyone reads this who is as woefully ignorant as I was, change your fuel filter about every 12k. You have to do that yourself, or watch someone else do it, as Chevy does NOT cover damage to your truck due to water in the fuel system. I no longer consider that my truck is warranted for anything to be honest about it. I did trade that 2004 Chevy after paying that $6500, which luckily was covered my my truck insurance - Three cheers for USAA insurance! Anyway, I traded because the previous DMax sounded a little off, and felt a little off, after the Florida dealer replaced most of the fuel system. I was never comfortable that "Mr Goodwrench" knew his elbow from his you-know-what. A new fuel filter obviously will not save an engine with 2 gallons of water in the fuel tank like I had, but it will alert you to the fact you OUGHT to get a warning on your DIC, and you probably will NOT get that warning - being knowledgeable about the filter, etc may help you avoid a costly repair bill.
By the way, even though I admit my ignorance, when the truck first started sounding and running oddly I immediately called Chevy Customer Service, who simply told me to take it to a Chevy dealer soon. I even asked if I should have it towed; they connected me to a nearby dealer who said "Nah, drive it in - no problem". That is the same place that changed the filter, charged my about $100 and told me to "run it hard".
Okay, rant mode off....;)
RE: GMC/Chevy - Use of Tow-Haul or "Manual" with new Ally
We just got back from a 6,500 mile trip with our new Duramax. When we were towing we had it in tow mode and just left it there. The Allison was a wonder, it held the speed both going up and coming down, even the long grade coming into Denver. Because of the cost of diesel we drove 55-60 and got 11.3 towing. Our rig comes in at about 11,500 pounds and I think the mileage will get better with time.
You are right for the manual, as of yet I've not found a need to use it, I just let the Allison in tow mode do it's thing.
One question I have is; when do you change the oil? Do you use the % indicator or change at 5,000 miles. This time I waited until I got home and it had the 6,500, but the indicator said I was at 45%.
Thanks for that feedback. You are now towing at the speed where I did with my previous 2004 DMax, and I got 11.4 mpg, however my FW weighs a little less that yours. So you are doing something right!:C Heck, there are just you and me running at that "slow" speed, so we can wave at each other when we pass each other some day!:B
On the past trip, the first 600 towing with the new truck, I found I went in and out of TH mode. I thought the Allison was staying in a lower gear more than was needed. But then again if I'm on a less winding and hilly road the TH might do well. My previous DMax, the 2004 with an Allison but without the current 6 gear, did not stay in high rpms/lower gear as much as the 2008 did last weekend on this same route. Not sure why, but I suspect the gearing differences were at work, and I'd be fine, MPG-wise, even leaving it in TH. But it bugged me, so I flipped it in and out of TH! :o
On the oil change issue, you will get my opinion, which is worth what you are paying me; nothing! I used to change the engine oil and filter, plus the Allison external spin on filter about every 4-5k, although I also checked the "Oil Life" on the DIC, which was usually about 40-60% before I reset it. I believe with the new truck and higher oil prices, however, I will wait until the Oil Life indicates a little higher; like maybe 70% before I change the oil and filters. However, my truck is used 95% for towing, so it sits around a bit in the winter. So I try to do a change before it goes into storage. I say storage, but even in the Nov-March period where it doesn't tow I still get 200 miles or so a month. I don't think it's good to get zero miles on it for 2-3 months.
You will also get different opinions on what oil to use. I use Shell Rotella. I use the non-synthetic in my truck and the synthetic in my motorcycles. I've been using those two for several trucks and motorcycles, and found no reason to change.
RE: GMC/Chevy - Use of Tow-Haul or "Manual" with new Ally
On my 06 3500 DMAX/Alley I leave it in drive and use the TH until it starts searching for gears, up and down shifting, then I use the Manual to hold it in the the lower gear till the road evens out.
..........
That sounds like a good plan. On my short trip of about 600 miles, I pretty much left it in TH. However, the terrain in which I was towing was full of hills and twists and turns - perfect for riding a motorcycle, but not for towing a FW! I found that I pushed it out of TH pretty often as it wanted to stay in a lower gear in conditions where I thought I'd be okay in a higher gear. So in those places I pushed the TH button to knock it out of TH. However, after reading your post I think I might try your technique.
I'm curious about my mileage but I don't plan on watching it too closely for another 5k or so. I averaged a little over 11 on the 600 mile trip, however about 80 miles of that was with the FW disconnected. I was expecting a lot worse under those conditions. My previous 2004 DMax got 11.4 mpg over about 6000 miles with this FW, but only about 2 trips were in the Ozarks, the rest was Memphis to Florida where my mileage ought to have been better.:C
RE: Chevy DMax built in brake controller setting?
Thanks, I have gotten some great info on the brake controller here. I towed with it last week and it worked for me very well.
Thanks to all of you who took the time to offer suggestions. I did finally get around to reading that section in the owner's manual again and the second read was more help that the first go 'round.
RE: Vehicle Prices
Just gotta watch those dealers! They wanted to give me a really low trade in on my 2004 DMax...."you know, with diesel prices so high right now we can't offer much", etc. I had to remind him I was trading it in on a NEW nearly $50,000 DMax on which he was reluctant to cut the price down to where I thought it ought to be. He said "oh, yeah, forgot about that"! :B
GMC/Chevy - Use of Tow-Haul or "Manual" with new Ally
I just bought a new DMax. Love it so far, but there are a few differences between it and my previous 04 DMax. I have not been able to figure out when it might make sense to use the Manual mode. I'm guessing when I want to ensure it won't shift gears up? My 04 had a "lock" where I could keep the Allison from going into overdrive. Or that was my understanding; I might have the terminology wrong. I drove that truck usually in Tow-Haul.
With the new truck the TH Allison really wants to stay in a lower gear that I think it needs to be. Much more so than the 04, but then again the old truck had one gear less, so maybe that's normal. Also, the 2008 truck only has about 750 miles on it, and I am trying to follow the Manual's recommendation to keep the speed under 50 mph. That's not been easy to do. I don't believe the Allison has been above 5th gear yet, and then only for a little while on a short level stretch.
So, anyone offer a suggestion when to use the Manual mode? The reading I've done indicates using Manual is not really a "manual" transmission, you just limit the top gear, but the Ally will still shift on its own up and down, just not up past the "gear" you selected (like M4). Correct?
FWIW, it LOOKS like my mileage MIGHT be not too bad towing. It is WAY too early to tell. I towed recently with a motorcycle trailer behind the FW and two kayaks on the truck's roof, and my DIC mileage was over 9 mph - which amazed me since I was going pretty slow and the road was twisty and hilly - not much opportunity to get into the high gears. But I am not counting on much yet - another 2000 miles or so towing and I'll track the MPGs - right now I'm afraid I'd scare myself so I've not calculated that - just glancing at the DIC readout.....which is probably a mistake!
RE: Chevy DMax built in brake controller setting?
For FYI, I started using 6.0 with my new truck but now I'm using 7.0. That feels like the most natural to me so far. Man, that built in controller is TOPS!
RE: Chevy DMax built in brake controller setting?
adVentureman,
..........
The point of all of this is that you need to adjust the controller so that you have a controlled system where the trailer is contributing to the braking force and not leading the truck, or the truck is not suppling all of the braking.
Best way to do this is take it out on a road or really large parking lot and experiment a bit.
Roger that, sir. Makes sense. I misunderstood what you wrote the first time. I'm looking forward to towing for the first time later this week. But it will be hard to tow slowly during the recommended break in period! Heck, I tow slow enough as it is!
